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Problems Growing Tomatoes in Hot Weather
For organic control, there is not much you can do but dispose of plants that are totally infected. You will not be able to save them, and the mites will just spread down the row once they've killed a plant. In fact, once the mite damage becomes visible, several generations have already occurred, so they are probably well established. Never compost a plant that is infected with spider mites, as the composting process will not kill them. Spraying a strong stream of water under the leaves to try to dislodge them sometimes works. You will need to do this a couple of times a week. A mixture of liquid seaweed and water is recommended as an organic solution in many publications, but my experience with liquid seaweed and spider mites is that the spider mites usually win the battle. However, liquid seaweed is great for tomato plants, and a healthy plant is less likely to have any problems. Another organic solution for spider mites is horticultural soaps and oils. Both must be applied in the cooler parts of the day and several follow-up treatments every 2-3 days is necessary. In addition, direct contact with the mites is important in order to kill them. There is no residual effect with horticultural soaps or oils. Once the mites are eliminated, new growth will begin to appear. For chemical control, Malathion or Rotenone will get rid of spider mites. They all have a residual of differing periods and careful application on vegetable crops is highly recommended. Test any new product you are unfamiliar with on one or two plants first. Never apply a wide application of any chemical over the entire garden because you will kill bees and many other beneficial insects. Don't apply a chemical pesticide directly to fruit that has already begun to form on the plant.
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