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Questions and Answers:Q. I am growing my tomatoes in pots this year and still having problems with blossom end rot. I decided to grow them in pots because I was having the same problem while planting them in the ground. I can’t figure it out. Can you offer any advice? A. Blossom end rot is caused by not enough moisture getting to the bottom of the tomato as it grows on the vine or something that causes the cell structure of the tomato to be so weak that the cells in that part of the tomato collapse. Once the cells break apart that area turns black and begins to rot. Be sure there is even moisture to the tomato plant. Water every day if necessary and don’t spray water on the plants which can spread fungal spores. If the plants dry out, which can happen quickly if they are planted in a pot, and you water heavily, the water rushing to the fruit will rupture the already weakened cell walls and cause the blossom end to rot or turn black. An even amount of fertilizer or also important. Most organic fertilizers break down slowly and provide a steady supply of nutrients to the plant. High nitrogen fertilizers shock the plants system, causing cells to rupture, and can also cause the problem. Lack of calcium is usually listed as a cause of blossom end rot. Most over-the-counter blossom end rot remedies contain calcium, but it must be applied before the fruit begins to form. The good news is that most of the soils around here have enough calcium. Calcium strengthens cellular walls as does potassium, the second number in the fertilizer ratios, such as 10-5-6, the number 5 in this example representing potassium. Have your soil tested at least every other year to make sure your fertilizer levels or correct. Contact your local county extension office for the correct procedure in your county. Q. My okra plants are looking good but there is liquid oozing from different areas of the plant that is attracting lots of ants. What is it? A. These type of secretions are normal for okra and ants are attracted to okra plants in general, and especially the secretions of sap. Most ants do no harm, but fire ants will hurt your okra plants by damaging the base of the blooms and causing the blooms to abort, dramatically decreasing production. Mix granulated molasses or “sweet cane” as it is called, that you can purchase at most feed stores, with your soil. 1 pound per 100 foot row should keep the fire ants away until harvest. Large established mounds not located directly under the plant can be destroyed by pouring boiling water on the mound. Be careful using this method as serious injury could result. Q. I have some little cigar-shaped bugs that gather around the stems of several of my plants. They don’t seem to be damaging the plant but there are so many of them. What are they? A. These are leaf-hoppers or sharpshooters. They cover the stems of the plants and move to the back side of the stem as you approach. They fly away easily, so they are hard to control by spraying. There are several beneficial insects that can control them, such as parasitic wasps. Non-organic control is liquid Sevin. If your plants are healthy and receive plenty of water, these sap sucking little creatures can’t do much damage. The biggest problem they cause is spreading disease from plant to plant. Using large sunflowers, such as mammoth or Russian sunflowers as a trap crop works well for me. They will gather on the plants by the hundreds. You an choose to poison them or not depending on your garden philosophy.
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